Friday, May 29, 2009

El Capitan


El Capitan. The Nose is the prominent buttress on the sun/shade line.


Sam and I racking up. Our haul bag was about 100lbs on day one (48 lbs of water, plus bivy gear, plus clothes for storms, plus food).


Picture of me leading in the Stoveleg Cracks taken from El Cap meadow - telephoto lense. (The guy on the right is from a different party. They are bailing down the rap route after getting soaked in a thunderstorm.)


Picture taken from El Cap meadow of Sam and I with a huge telephoto lense.


Mmmmm...breakfast on El Cap Tower. This was our bivy for the first night. Top of pitch 14.


Nother shot of El Cap Tower.


This is me lowering out for the King Swing (top of pitch 16). I lowered out about 80 feet, then ran back and forth like mad to get over to the next crack system. It took me about 7 tries. I finally made it after running as hard as possible and screaming out at the top of my lungs; Ahhhhhhhh, got it.


Sam leading pitch 17.


Sam leading the pitch below the Great Roof.


Camp VI bivy. This ledge was the size of a small kitchen table.

Looking down from Camp VI. My shoulder basically hung off this during the night, but I slept well (securely tied in). The Nose route begins on the buttress sticking out way below.


Sam leading the second to last pitch.


My yellow helmet from a belay.


Me leading the last pitch and looking down 3,000 feet.



We were benighted on the route down and bivied here on the East Ledges desent.

Most awesome rock route I've ever done. It ended up being a little harder than I thought, but we did free about half the route. We were rained on (+ hail and lightning and 35 mph gusts) on the first day, and on the 2nd-4th days we were climbing by 6 am about every day, but had to climb late every day. We didn't reach Camp VI until 11pm.

Beautiful route. Probably the hardest physical thing I've ever done. It wasn't easy to wake up on day 3 and 4 and still have thousands of feet to climb.

Loved it. I have wanted to climb the Nose since I first heard about it as a teenager.

16 comments:

Sarah said...

Another Wooooooooohooooooo! Wow those are AWESOME photos. I like the one that looks directly down the Nose because it looks so much higher than the others. You're amazing Bry.Wow.
-- From Mom who sat in El Cap meadow: One aspect of the climb you didn't mention was the incredible pain those huge haul bags are to deal with. Fun to watch you ratchet them up, though. The whole thing was unforgettable. I'll be in the meadow in 20 years when you take your kids up.

sNick said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
sNick said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
sNick said...

Wow. I'm speechless. That's amazing, Brian. Way to go. PS I just deleted this same comment twice because I kept spelling your name wrong. How hard is 'Brian'? Sometimes...

Chris Andrew said...

Holy crap Brian, good job! That's amazing. P.S. What did you do when you had to go to the bathroom? Just curious LOL :D

Katie said...

CONGRATS Brian! That is awesome! What an accomplishment. I hope you are lovin' Colorado.

Brian Hays said...

So, to answer the question; going the bathroom is interesting. Number one is simple: just aim away from the route and down.

Number two is not as simple. Bring wag bags. Go on a ledge while tied in. Hope no one is watching from below with a telescope. Place the wag bag (basically a big burly zip-lock) in a trash bag inside an air-tight dry bag that is now dedicated to that purpose alone. Haul it up the climb. Dispose of when you get down.

Jerry said...

WAY TO GO, BRIAN! I was praying for you that week and I'm so glad you made it up and down safely! That must have been an amazing experience! Two comments: Those pictures looking down made me dizzy. Seriously. I'm not even exaggerating. I don't know how you did that. And secondly, how on earth were you able to take photographs while climbing so high? That would be the last thing on my mind! Very amazing climb!

William Cobb said...

That climb is so cool, that I feel like I'm cooler, just because I know you who finished it.

Clay Allred said...

Holy Crap Brian! Strong work. You're so awesome.

Lindsey said...

Holy HARD CORE, oh my heavens. Although I didn't understand some of the vocab, the pictures were AWESOME and it looked super intense. A big CONGRATULATIONS on finishing it. That's awesome and looks like a HUGE accomplishment...yeah! I'm related to you!

Jana said...

Didn't understand half the words, but ... COOL! Congratulations.

Kevin said...

Good job! You are awesome! I've never done anything that compares to that.

-Kevin

Lori said...

We are coming to get an autographed photo of you and Angela! What an awesome opportunity. Glad you shared the incredible pictures of your vertical adventure! Nicely done!

Frank said...

Cool Brian! Brings a whole new meanging to being between a rock and a hard place!

What is the next grand adventure! I'd like to be there for at least the approach route!

Dad

Catherine said...

I know I am late in congratulating you, but WAY TO GO, BRIAN!!! Those pics made my palms sweat just looking at them. You ROCK big time!!